Citrus-Lime Blog

NEW FOR 2010, Whiting Coq de Leon Hen Soft Hackle with Chickabou!

Nigel — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 07:40:38 GMT

Steph delivers the perfect image again! Just take a look at this STUNNING Whiting Coq de Leon Hen Soft Hackle with Chickabou. Just like the Whiting Brahma Hen Soft Hackle and Chickabou you get a big patch of soft hackle plus the super soft chickabou in fantastic speckled natural colours. A Warning from Nige, the Whiting stock being entered into the stock system over the last few days is turning over very fast, once this stock we will not be replacing it until mid November! Don’t hang around, if you like it buy it NOW!

New Workshop Features

admin — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 15:31:41 GMT

We’ve been beavering away working on version 3.0 of our RMS workshop and scheduling module. The new functionality includes:

Significantly improved performance;

A simplified more reliable front end in the RMS POS screens;

The ability to track when / if a bike has arrived in the workshop – a simple screen allows you track and contact customers who have not brought their bikes in;

Templates for workshop emails and SMS – allowing you to create standard templates to send updates on jobs to your customers;

Single click printing of workshop job sheets, avoiding the need to select a printer;

New report to analyse new bike build financials separately from other workshop jobs;

Ability to edit customer contact details from within the workshop job screen;

Cashier booking in job and time of booking in displayed on job

Collect @ Store

admin — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 15:29:09 GMT

We added an upgrade to CitrusStore which allows the customer to select the option to collect their goods from one of your retail sites. The option:

Provides a Collect @ Store option in the checkout process;

A user is forced to enter a separate billing address to enforce credit card security checks;

When this is selected the customer sees the store address entered as the delivery address;

No shipping charges are applied to the order;

The order confirmation email clearly states that the order is for collection at store.

Currently this upgrade is limited to a single stock pickup location, but it could be expanded to allow selection from a number of sites with further development. Thanks to Warrington Wolves for commissioning this new feature.

Whiting Coq de Leon at Lakeland Fly-Tying!

Nigel — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 06:38:02 GMT

JUST TAKE A LOOK AT THIS IMAGE, is this the most buggy hen hackle that you have seen! Lakeland are going to be releasing 4 Whiting Coq de Leon products into the stock system starting today with the Whiting Coq de Leon Hen Capes in Silver Speckled and Brown Speckled. Coq de Leon Hen hackles are very soft and webby in the centre with stiffer tips, excellent for any type of hackle but stunning for nymph legs. Just look at the colouring and pattern on this neck, they are so game birdie! Sign up for the news letter so you will be the first to see the Whiting Coq de Leon Hen Necks, Whiting Coq de Leon Hen Saddles, Whiting Coq de Leon Soft Hackle and Chickabou and last but not least we will put MORE Coq de Leon ROOSTER SADDLES into the stock system!

Mammut gear, back in stock

tcsh — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 10:07:25 GMT

Great news. The Climbers Shop are now stocking Mammut gear once again.

Mammut clothing has been a very popular brand for the Climbers Shop for many years, but due to various reasons we stopped stocking their gear about a year ago. We have now renewed our association with this fantastic alpine inspired brand and have a superb range of their clothing and equipment available in store and online right now.

Their technical climbing clothing for this season is simply outstanding and oozes Mammut’s innovative style and exceptional high quality. Mammut is very much a users brand and is designed for active mountaineers and climbers. Mammut clothing uses the most advanced modern technical fabrics available to ensure great performance, high durability and trustworthy weather protection.

Some of the key products to look out for are the ever popular Base Jump Pants which have now been improved to become the Base Jump Advanced Pants. The Extreme Logan Jacket is Mammut’s premier mountaineering shell, and is absolutely bomber yet still surprisingly light. We’re also stocking Mammut’s outstanding soft shell, the Chalten Jacket, which use Schoeller C-Change fabric, that actively adapts to different climatic conditions. Very clever!

For our full range go to our Mammut Brand Page.

Sron Uladail: The Great Climb

tcsh — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 12:51:14 GMT

If you live in Scotland, last weekend you will have got the chance to watch an epic climbing adventure. Dave Macleod, all round climbing God, and conqueror of currently the hardest route in the UK (Echo Wall, on Ben Nevis – E??), and Tim Emmett, base jumper, climber and general madman, took on the challenge climbing one of the longest and hardest multi pitch routes in the country.

Sron Uladalle is in a remote part of the Isle of Harris, with no road access and even less previous attention from the media. But it was here that the BBC elected to send a whole pack of cameramen with countless £’s of HD equipment to follow our two hero’s as they attempted to beat the crag. Like a military manoeuvre, the filming was planned and plotted and people were positioned in key places to catch every angle of every crimp and jam. Guest pundits, in the form of Cameron McNeish, Stephen Venables, Duncan McCallum and Mark “Garth” Garthwaite were all drafted in and an enthusiastic presenter was plonked in front of the camera to build up excitement. In a moment of what could equally be described as lunacy, as it could innovation, BBC 2 Scotland devoted 5 1/2 hours to live coverage of the climb itself! This is the kind of coverage you would expect from a Grand Prix, or The Ashes or some other major sporting event. It is the kind of attention that you expect climbing to get!

Indeed, a previous attempt to make The Great Climb in 2007 was rained off, leaving a rather embarrassing gap in the schedule. However, this time they had the benefit of one Dave Macleod. Anyone who has followed Dave's blog or watched Echo Wall will realise that he does not take the unplanned route. Dave is meticulous about his preparation (shovelling snow for 7 DAYS just to get a Echo Wall in a dryer state to climb). And so he should, Dave Macleod climbs so far above us mere mortals that, if he doesn’t have everything planned out, the penalty for failing is ….. well, not worth paying!

The outcome of Macleod's planning was the selection of a route that overhung so much that, even in the inevitable torrential rain, the climbers stayed dry and could continue unhindered until the very end of the last pitch – “the best umbrella on Harris” as they put it. Obviously, as the route was so long, and overhung to such a degree, it was all solidly in the E-grades with the hardest pitch (pitch 2) being graded at E9!

So the stage was set for an amazing feat of climbing prowess. Just to add to the tension, a few days previously, Macleod had sustained an slash to his ankle when a rock the size of a breeze block came hurtling past whilst setting up the cameras. In typical understatement his thoughts were “hmm, that’s not good. I’ll probably need a wee trip to the hospital”, but then follows that with “I just had to forget about it … and I just (got down and) got my boots on and starting walking quickly before it started to … hurt a bit more” – mental.

In contrast, Tim Emmett was a positive bundle of enthusiasm and superlatives (lots of “Brilliant!” and “Awesome!”), whooping and grinning all the way. This almost childlike exterior disguises a truly serious climber who did not show himself up in the slightest. In the company of someone who is so much at the top of his game like Macleod, Emmet would have been excused for looking second best but, although he didn’t lead the hardest section, he performed brilliantly throughout, and the contrast in styles between the two was interesting to watch.

All credit to the producers of The Great Climb, very quickly into the programme they get to the climbing proper. It is all too common in niche sports (apologies to any objections to that term!) to faff around interviewing people and showing background montages etc when the sport itself would be far more interesting. So you quickly get to see these two amazing climbers in their element making it all look so damned easy, when most of us would have fallen at the first move (which is E7, 6B by the way)

Anyway, I am not going to give you a blow by blow account of the climb, save to say that there is a fall, some slips, some blood, some barn doors and two very tired climbers by the end of the programme. The similarities between this televisual feast and the the 1967 ascent of The Old Man of Hoy is proof that there is no such thing as a new idea, but lets hope the BBC don’t wait for another 43 years before trying it again.

Of course, if you are not of the Scottish persuasion, like ourselves, you will probably have missed it … well nearly. Get yourself on to the iPlayer and watch it in all it’s 5 1/2 hour glory. There is also rumours of a highlights programme planned for BBC4 – keep your eyes peeled.

NB. images courtesy of BBC, Dave Macleod, and Mountain Equipment (who sponsored the whole thing)

NEW FOR 2010, Whiting Brahma Soft Hackle with Chickabou!

Nigel — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 06:08:14 GMT

New for 2010, Lakeland have just received a range of the Whiting Brahma Soft Hackle with Chickabou. Just take a look at this Stunning image! Each saddle will give you 2 soft hackle patches, one on either side of the chickabou strip that goes right down the centre. This is the perfect saddle for producing really buggy nymphs and mini lures with the supper mobile chickabou!

Just Take a LOOK at this STUNNING BRAHMA HEN Cape!

Nigel — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:45:00 GMT

As promised Steph as been busy with the Camera, just take a look at this stunning Golden Olive Brahma Hen Cape, very Soft Webby Hackles perfect for all of your wet fly patterns.

Autumn/Winter Season ranges arriving now

coAdmin — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 13:33:22 GMT

Keep your eye out, both in our stores and on-line! Lots of exciting new lines for the autumn/winter season 2010 are arriving almost daily.

Thursday Sept 2nd Newby Bridge 7pm

bktr — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 11:06:00 GMT

Meet/park by the weir, turn off the A590 at The Swan Hotel, over the bridge, first left and park. Easy access for everybody, and surprisingly good riding. Quite a few options, decide on the night where to ride. No chips this week as Nigel will be at the beer festival. As we are athletes, we don’t mind………………. Great ride last week, even the rain stayed off. Maybe we will see Baz I out again, or maybe not as I believe he is almost a road Pro now after two weeks riding almost every day.

Whiting Brahma Hen Capes, Saddles and Soft Hackle with Chickabou arrives at Lakeland!

Nigel — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 16:45:00 GMT

Lakeland have just received a VERY LARGE ORDER of Whiting Hen Capes and Saddles and new for 2010, soft hackle with chickabou. Lakeland are entering the Whiting Brahma products into the stock system first, on Thursday we put the Whiting Brahma Saddles into the stock system, we believe these are the finest game bird subs available! Wednesday the 1st of September will see the news letter for the Whiting Brahma Hen Capes go out along with NEW IMAGES for the web site. At only £11.50 these are a stunning hen cape with nice soft hackles with a round tip, excellent for all your wet flies and lures. LAKELAND HAVE ALREADY ENTERED these capes into the stock system. Please note the image on the web is old with a old price, that’s why we are doing new images! The 3rd of September will see the release of the Whiting Brahma Soft Hackle and Chickabou Saddles, new for 2010 these are going to be very popular for wets and mini lures, the chickabou will give unbelievable movement!

Down vs Synthetic

tcsh — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 11:57:00 GMT

If you are looking to get yourself a good piece of insulation, be it a jacket or sleeping bag, this is a question you will need to ask yourself. Traditionally, the answer was easy, if you wanted to actually stay warm then down was the way to go, however recently, synthetic insulation has caught up somewhat, making the decision not so straightforward.

Here, we will try and lay out the fact for you in as simple terms as possible so that you can make the decision as easily as possible.

How Does Insulation Work?

All insulation works in the same manner, by trapping a layer of warm air next to your body. Even when it is very cold, we produce warmth from our body. The reason why you might feel cold is that, in very cold temperatures, that warmth is instantly cooled by the environment and you then have to use up more energy producing more warmth.
If you put a layer of warm air around you then your body does not have to keep producing heat to keep you alive, it can now produce heat to actually warm you up. How good an item of insulation is depends on how well it can trap that layer of warm air. Does the wind get in an blow some of it away? How deep in the layer of warm air? How quickly does it warm up?

What are Down and Synthetic Insulation Actually Made Of?

Down Insulation:

In danger of stating the obvious, down insulation is made of … down!

More specifically, the downy feathers from either ducks or geese. Down is actually the soft and fluffy fibres that lie under the feathers of a bird. These have one job, and that is to keep a bird warm, which is obviously why they are so useful to us. The filaments in the down fluff up and are very efficient at trapping the air next to the body and allowing that air to insulate you – this is know and lofting.

(Top Tip: If you have a Down jacket that keeps losing feathers as they poke through the outer fabric then that is a sure way to know that it has got cheap down in it. Real down has no spine to it)

True Down vs a ‘Downy’ Feather

Synthetic Insulation:

Synthetic insulation is an attempt to artificially emulate the natural properties of down insulation. Long fibres of polyester are woven into a mat which then contains millions or miniature gaps which trap the air efficiently and consistently. In some cases, these fibres are also hollow which traps even more insulating air.

Is There Just One Type of Down and Synthetic Insulation?

You know it wouldn’t be that simple! No, there are loads of variations, but we’ll try and keep it simple here.

Down Insulation Types:

The two main types of down insulation are Goose and Duck. It is generally accepted that goose down is the higher quality, as it lofts better.

When looking at down items you are often confronted with various numbers, including fill power and down grade. These are good indications of the quality, as long as you understand them.

Down Fill Power

Down fill power is recorded with a single number (600, 650, 750 etc) and is a measure of the loftiness of the down. The number refers to the number of cubic inches that 30g of down occupies when under an international standard of pressure. A higher number means that the down lofts more and occupies more space which will in turn make it more insulating when it’s used in a jacket or sleeping bag. Medium quality down tends to have a number of around 550 whereas the better quality items have a number closer to 700 or 750+.

(Top Tip: The US Fill power is not measured in the same manner as the UK and therefore their numbers tend to be higher for the same quality of down. Be careful if comparing a UK brand jacket to a US one as the numbers will not correspond (US will be higher by about 100))

Down Grade

The quality of the down is not just related to the species of bird, it is also a reflection of the ratio of down to feather that the manufacturer uses. Lower quality down is sometimes bulked out by using downy feathers which give a bit of extra loft but without the warmth. The top quality down products have a ratio of around 95% down which is normally expressed as 95/5, where the first number is the down and the second is the feather. Pure 100% down is virtually unachievable as it would be so labour intensive that it would make the down incredibly expensive.

Down Facts: Quality can also depend on age – a mature duck will produce better quality down than a young goose – however there is almost no way of knowing the age of you the down so we just stick to Goose=Better.

The down is a bi-product of the poultry industry and therefore the price of down jackets and sleeping bags is directly connected to how popular duck and goose meat is in Europe and the Far East.

Synthetic Insulation Types:

If you thought down could get complicated then synthetic insulation can present you with a bewildering array of options. Essentially, all synthetic insulation works on the same principle but as with most technology, the specific details are always well guarded secrets. Fortunately, the top brands have done the investigating and testing for us and come up the with market leaders.

Primaloft:

In the UK, this is the the leading brand of synthetic insulation. It is very thermally efficient, highly compressible and has excellent water resistance. Without buying down, this is probably as close as you will get. The actual make-up of branded synthetic insulation is a often a closely guarded secret so it is hard to tell you too much about the composition.

Thinsulate:

A major brand in the US market, many companies in the UK also use they insulation, although they do appear more in the gloves and accessories ranges.

Many brands produce their own insulation types which will be based on the same principle as Primaloft but just cost the company less to purchase.

Well what are the pro’s and con’s of Down and Synthetic Insulation then?

Down Insulation

Synthetic Insulation

Pros:

Very warm

Lightweight

Extremely compressible

Pros:

Warm, even when wet

Dry’s quicker

Cheaper

Holds its shape

Cons:

Expensive

Loses warmth when wet

Slow to dry and can ‘clump’

Can move around and needs baffles to keep it in place

Cons:

Heavier than down

Not as compressible

Bulkier

This basically means that the two types of insulation can fulfil slightly different niches;

A down jacket is more suited for very cold, but dry environments – this is why you find down jackets are the choice product for high altitude, alpine or polar expeditions. In these situations, the down’s better thermal capacity comes into it’s own and there is little chance of the down getting wet as any water is always frozen as ice or snow. In order to insulate against the extreme cold of these conditions, a synthetic item would have to be so big that it would not be practical to wear.
A synthetic jacket however is much better suited for a slightly more mild climate where temperatures can still get well below zero but, at lower altitudes, or at certain times of day, you can also expect rain or wet snow. In these conditions the insulation that a synthetic item provides is perfectly good, and the water resistant fibres make it a better choice in the damper climate. Synthetics are therefore a far better choice for UK winter use.

Is there a difference in how you look after Down vs Synthetic jackets?

As you can imagine, washing a down item is a little harder than washing a synthetic garment – although the down composition is better these days, you still need to be careful that you don’t clump up the down and leave yourself with cold spots where there is no down. For the full run down of how to wash them, then take a look at our Washing & Reproofing Guide.

Hopefully that has cleared up some of the confusion that can surround insulation. If you want more info on sleeping bag insulation in particular then take a look at our ‘Sleeping Bags Gear Guide’, and for more answers to questions not posed here then feel free to give us a ring on 015394 30122 or email us.

Job Vacancies

admin — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 09:28:00 GMT

Thanks for showing an interest in working at The Climbers Shop. Unfortunately, there are no vacancies at present. If you have any further questions or enquiries then please email us

How to Clean & Waterproof Outdoor Gear

tcsh — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 11:54:45 GMT

How to wash a waterproof jacket or reproof a pair of boots is one of the most common topics we get asked about at The Climbers Shop. “Should I wash my waterproof jacket?”, “Does washing waterproof jackets damage them?”, “What do I wash waterproof clothing in?”, “How do you re-waterproof a jacket to bring back the water repellency?”, all these questions and more have been posed to us.

What we will try to do here is to clear up some of the confusion over washing and waterproofing your gore-tex jackets and other outdoor clothing, as well as how to clean and care for your boots. If you do it right, you will get the best out of them and hopefully prolong the life of them (thus saving you money!).

Should I wash my waterproof jacket?

Yes, yes, and yes again. Just because it is a waterproof jacket, or a softshell etc, it doesn’t mean that it doesn’t need washing. When you wash an item of clothing normally, you are not only removing any stains, you are also extracting and oils and dirt that can build up in the fibres. These natural oils are what the smell producing bacteria set to work on and is why a t-shirt can start to smell once you’ve worn it for a few days (quicker for some!). This is exactly the same with your waterproof clothing and other outdoor gear as well.

With waterproof clothing, the removal of those oils and dirts has an even more important function, the improvement of the garments breathability and waterproofing. If you keep them clean then both of these functions will work a lot better – we’ll go into more detail later.

For footwear the answer is the same – make sure you wash them. If you have got your boots dirty then make sure you give them a good wash with warm water. If you leave the dirt to get ingrained in the boot upper then it will deteriorate a lot quicker. What surprises people is that you should also clean the inside of the boot as well, especially if they have a Gore-tex or eVent membrane. Again, we’ll go into more detail later.

Does washing waterproof jackets damage them?

No, not unless you decide to use a washboard on the banks of a river! Outdoor gear is very robust, and there is little you can do when washing it to damage it.

What do I wash waterproof clothing in?

This probably the most confusing question, as there are so many products on the market. Whatever you do, do not use detergents on your outdoor gear as can clog the breathability and actually attract water. It is probably easiest to go through the types of garments to make it clear. We deal with Nikwax washing and waterproofing products, which is a long running and successful and is a water based product so tends to be better for the environment than some other brands. We will therefore list the relevant Nikwax cleaning product for each clothing type;

Washing Base Layers & Fleeces:

These can basically be treated like normal clothing, washing them in standard washing powder. If you want to get the absolute best out of your base and midlayer clothing (even cotton garments) then you can also wash them in Nikwax Techwash which not only cleans the garment but would also maintain the water repellent finish (DWR) that most modern fabrics are treated with.

Washing Softshells:

Most softshells fall into one of two categories; windproof membrane and non-membrane items. If the garment does not have a membrane in it to make it windproof then, just like the fleeces and base layers above, you can probably get away with washing them on a normal wash. If it has a membrane then it probably falls into the category below.

Washing Windproof and Waterproof Garments:

With few exceptions, these items all have membranes or some sort of micropore technology in them which keeps the rain and wind at bay. When you don’t wash your waterproofs, it is these tiny pores that can get blocked up with microscopic dirt and grime and stop the item working effectively. You normally get two issues when an item gets dirty; firstly the breathability of it decreases. This means that you start to feel more clammy and sticky when wearing it (this obviously means that you sweat more and clog the pores up even quicker!). The second issue is that the oils can upset the inherent hydrophobic (water repelling) properties of the fabric and in some cases it can actually start to attract water not repel it.
Washing waterproof or windproof garments in a pure soap, such as Nikwax Techwash, can therefore not only clean the dirt off, but in some cases it can actually restore the water repellency and breathability to the garment. The easiest way to do this is to pop the item into the washing machine with some Techwash, but you can hand wash it if you would prefer.

Washing Down:

Although it hardly ever actually needs it, washing down jackets and sleeping is probably the hardest type of garment care you can tackle. The difficulty with washing down is that, if you do not dry it correctly, you can actually cause the down to clump worse than it was prior to washing. It is therefore essential that you use the correct non-detergent soap, such as Nikwax’s Down Wash, that will remove the dirt yet leave the water repellency intact.
After washing your down garment, you should spin dry it 3 times on a slow spin before tumble drying it on a low setting. In order to rid the down of ‘clumps’ it is quite advantageous to add some tennis balls to the tumble dryer which constantly bash into the garment and pummel the clumps out. You should also remove it regularly and manually tease and pat the clumps out before putting it back in.
If all of this sounds a bit too complicated then there are various companies who you can employ to wash your jacket or sleeping bag for you. Being professionals, these guys will almost be guaranteed to wash it correctly, thus removing the stress of the job.

Cleaning Leather Boots:

With few exceptions, cleaning leather boots is best done with water and hard work. As leather is a natural material, most cleaning products will lead to an alteration of the leather, usually drying it out, which can lead to unwanted cracking. The best way to clean leather boots is to do it regularly and use warm water and a sponge to remove the dirt and mud off of them. After cleaning your walking boots, you should then allow them to dry naturally. The worst thing you can do with leather (apart from using a solvent based cleaning solution, which dries them out loads!) is to dry them on a radiator/heater/next to the fire etc. This may be very tempting as a pair of soggy walking boots around the house is not pleasant, but if you over dry them then you will suck too much moisture out of them and dry the leather out.
The most effective way of drying walking boots is to push newspaper into them and leave them in a warm, non centrally heated area. Check them regularly and change the paper as many times as it takes for them to dry completely.

Cleaning Synthetic Boots:

To clean synthetic walking boots, much of the above applies here as well. The difference with synthetic footwear is that you can use cleaning products, as the man made fabrics and rubbers will happily tolerate the solvents etc. You can purchase various cleaning products that will help to remove stains and marks from your synthetic boots and shoes, such as Nikwax’s Footwear Cleaning Gel.

Cleaning Inside Boots:

For the inside of your footwear, you should use more warm water and a long handled brush (washing up brush) to get in to all parts of the inner. You can even fill up the inside of a Gore-tex boot or shoe in order to soak some of the dirt out. This will offer the added bonus of showing any leaks up, any water that starts to appear on the outside of the boot will indicate that you have a puncture in the Gore-tex membrane.

How do you re-waterproof a jacket to bring back the water repellency?

As previously mentioned, if your garment is starting to ‘wet out’ (soaking up water instead of repelling it) then you may just need to wash it. If however, after washing a waterproof jacket, it still doesn’t seem to have a water repellent finish then it is probably because abrasion has worn that layer of DWR off. In this situation, you will need to apply a product that will reapply a thin layer of water repellent DWR finish – or ‘Reproof’ it.

Reproofing Clothing

Waterproofing outdoor clothing such as Gore-tex jackets or softshells is actually very simple. Once you have washed it in the correct Nikwax product, and whilst it is still damp, you can then simply spray on some Nikwax TX Direct to the outside of the garment. TX Direct is a wax based material that naturally repels the water and therefore allows the rain to bead off the surface, like water off a ducks back!
You can apply a TX Direct wash in version, which does work very well as it is very thorough, however it has the drawback of adding a DWR finish to the inside of garment. This means that any moisture that you produce actually gets repelled back at you instead of being absorbed through the fabric and allowed to evaporate.
A far better way to re-proof your waterproof items is to use a spray on re-proofer and, if needs be, a sponge to spread the liquid evenly over the surface. When adding a waterproof finish to your clothes you should pay close attention to areas of high wear like the cuffs, and areas where your rucksack sits, as these will be the areas where the DWR finish has been rubbed off the most.
Nikwax TX Direct can be used on a wide variety of clothing types, from a technical t-shirt up to a fully featured Goretex jacket. There are specific waterproofing products available for other types of garments however;

Reproofing Softshells:

Much like using TX Direct, Nikwax also produce a Softshell Proof for softshells that have a wicking liner, which should be applied after washing in Techwash, either in a wash in or spray on form. You can also get Nikwax Polar Proof for more thermal pieces such as Polartec, and Primaloft.

Reproofing Down:

After (carefully) washing your down jacket or sleeping bag, a wash in a dose of Down Proof from Nikwax will restore the water repellent finish and also improve breathability. Just like washing down initially, this needs to be done carefully and dried well before use. If your sleeping bag has a waterproof outer shell then you can use a spray on version of Nikwax TX Direct instead.

Reproofing Boots:

Having cleaned your boots, you will want to restore the water repellent finish that you had when they were new. If you have a leather based boot or shoe, then the product you use to reproof your boots should be a wax based one that has no solvents in it. if you use a solvent then the leather out and could lead to cracks. A wax based reproofing agent, like Nikwax’s Waterproofing Wax, will restore the leathers natural oils that make leather such a waterproof material. If you find that the leather has dried out a little, then do not despair, a treatment of Nikwax Conditioner for Leather should treat and reproof your boots.
You can also obtain specific products for Fabric & Leather boots as well as Nubuck & Suede. These will restore the water repellent finish whilst maintaining the balance of the materials in the boot.

Although this Guide to Cleaning and Waterproof Outdoor Gear is quite long, it has hopefully covered the questions that you may have had about how to wash waterproof clothing and how to reproof your clothes and boots. If you have any further questions then please do not hesitate to get in touch with us, either via email or by calling us on 015394 30121.

Lakeland X-Treme Chenille's are back in STOCK!

Nigel — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:11:55 GMT

Nige as been busy with the dye pot creating more of the stunning X-Treme Chenille colours. Available in 2 types, Lakeland X-Treme Chenille a BLOB Type Chenille and Lakeland X-Treme Plus Chenille (the Image) a dyed pearl Chenille. Lakeland X-Treme Chenille is VERY DURABLE and will not unravel between your fingers like a lot of the chenille’s and with 2 meters per pack this is a very good product. Lakeland X-Treme Chenille will give you a very dense bright body that will stand out in any water conditions. X-Treme Plus comes in a stunning range of colours, it ties in nice and dense but the colour will not be as intense as the X-Treme but you get the FLASH OF THE PEARL and awesome looking flies!

Crampons (and other spiky things)

tcsh — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:18:12 GMT

Along with an ice axe, crampons are an essential piece of mountaineering safety kit. They’ll give you much better security on snow and ice, making travel easier and faster and hugely improve your safety on steep slopes. As a general rule they should always be used in conjunction with an ice axe (if you’ve got your crampons on, you should have your axe in your hands too). For the ice axe gear guide click here

Crampons are in essence simply points or spikes that are attached to the soles of your boots. These points dig into snow and ice giving you greater traction over these notoriously slippery surfaces. The original crampons were developed by farmers living in the Alps in the 19th Century, with Farrier’s nails attached to crudely fashioned cradles. These evolved into a recognisable crampon design in the early 20th century and this has been refined ever since.

Nowadays there are a huge variety of different crampons available and these can be categorised into 3 main types. As with ice axes though, there is some crossover between the types.

C1 – These are the least rigid crampons available and are often referred to as walking or flexible crampons. Usually these will be 8 -12 point crampons (most commonly 10), and some may even lack ‘front points’ (the forward facing points at the toe) altogether. Walking crampons are usually attached to the boot with a strap and cage arrangement, which is the most adaptable and versatile sort of crampon binding, being easily adapted for different footwear.

The flexibility of C1 crampons comes from the connecting bar that attaches the front and rear sections of the crampon. This bar is made using flexible steel or alloy in a C1 crampon. Due to their inherent flex, C1 crampons are the easiest and most comfortable to walk in, making them the best choice for hill walkers looking for a general purpose crampon. They are ideal for none technical hill and mountain terrain. Their flexibility also means that these crampons will fit the widest range of boots of the 3 types. However the boots must still be relatively stiff soled and have a crampon compatibility rating (B1 at least).

C2 – Also called mountaineering, semi-rigid or 12 point crampons these are much more rigid than walking crampons. They are intended for steeper and more technical terrain than C1’s. They will usually have a minimum of 12 points, with 2 of these being front points, allowing the crampons to be used for climbing steep slopes (front-pointing). The centre bar will be rigid, although there will be some flex found at the pivot point, where the bar is connected to the front section.

Because of the rigidity of C2 crampons they must be used with stiff soled boots. These should have a B2 or B3 rating. The majority of C2 crampon designs are available with a rear heel bail binding system, making putting them on and taking them off faster and simpler than with a traditional ‘strap and cradle’ system. To use a heel bale system you will need suitable boots, with a dedicated heel notch. For boots without this notch, most manufacturers will still make a ‘strap and cradle’ model.

C2 crampons are the most versatile type, and can be used for walking, mountaineering, alpinism and easy graded ice climbing.

C3 – These are fully rigid crampons intended for climbing. Their stiffness when combined with a fully rigid boot, provides a very stable platform and less vibration when climbing, but this doesn’t allow for a lot of comfort when walking. They are also heavier and can be prone to ‘balling up’ (where snow gathers under the sole, gradually reducing the effectiveness of the crampon points), making C3 technical crampons a poor choice unless they are to be used purely for climbing. C3 crampons will usually have a heel bale and quite often a toe bale too, so it very important that they are teamed with fully compatible boots (B3 fully rigid mountain boots being the only real choice). Many C3 crampons use a modular design, allowing climbers to replace worn out front points or convert the crampon to a single point (or mono point) for greater precision.

Boot & Crampon Compatibility

You’ll notice there’s been a lot of references to C and B, 1, 2 and 3 used in the previous paragraphs. This is a fairly universal system of grading boot and crampon compatibility. Because there is a lot of crossover between these grades it should be seen as a guide rather than a rule, and of course it won’t guarantee a good fit between your chosen crampons and boots. The best option when choosing crampons is to talk to one of our experienced shop assistants, and even better if you bring your boots into the store we’ll be able to offer you a personalised fitting service.

Boot/Crampon grade	C1	C2	C3
B0 (unrated)	x	x	x
B1	a	i	x
B2	a	a	i
B3	i	a	a
Key	a= Ideal	i = okay, but not perfect	x = Not compatible at all

Anti Balling Plates

Balling up is when in certain snow conditions, snow gathers under the crampons and soles of your boots, reducing the effectiveness of the points of the crampons, eventually becoming a dangerous ‘ball’ of compacted snow under your feet. To combat this crampons are often fitted with anti balling (AB or antibott) plates. These are very simple but perform a vital job. They are usually made of flexible plastic or rubber and flex up and down as you walk. This pops out any built up snow from under your crampons.

Anti-Balling plates whilst not essential, are highly recommended. Luckily most current crampon models come ready supplied with a set. The alternative if you don’t have them fitted, is tapping your crampons with your ice axe at regular intervals as you walk – tedious, time consuming and it can unbalance you.

Fitting Crampons

Even if you have fully compatible boots and crampons, this doesn’t guarantee that they’re going to fit well together. Boots come in a variety of lengths, widths, sole depths and levels of ‘rocker’ (where the sole is curved to make walking more comfortable). All crampons should be adjustable for length, but you should also look to see if the width is also compatible with your boots.

When fitted there should be no movement between the sole of the boot and the crampon. The heel posts on the crampon should ‘hug’ the heel of the boot, nor should there be any gap under the front of the boot and the toe posts of the crampon should fit closely either side of the toebox. Too wide and the toe will be able to move around, too narrow and the front of the toe will be lifted away from the crampon. If the crampons have a heel bail, then snap this closed and see if they stay firmly attached to the boots without doing up any of the other straps. If it does stays put firmly then its a good indication that it’ll be a good fit

Be aware that some technical crampons may also have a shaped asymmetric centre bar, which will only be compatible with curved, asymmetric fit boots. Replacement asymmetric centre bars are available.

Other Traction Devices

Firstly these aren’t a replacement or a cheaper alternative for proper crampons. They are intended to give you some security on icy, yet easy angled ground (tracks and trails basically).

These come in variety of shapes and styles but the basic idea is the same; spikes or studs that fit under your footwear. Unlike crampons these ‘spikes’ will fit on any footwear, from shoes to wellies, making them ideal for a whole range of people. At the more technical end of these traction devices, the Kahtoola Microspikes are chains with spikes fitted that will fit over shoes or boots with a rubber cradle. They are designed primarily for winter trail and fell runners, so fit well over trainers and approach shoes. As they are easier to don and take off than crampons and are less bulky, they can be used for crossing snowfields or short sections of ice in marginal winter conditions. Other simpler models of traction overshoes include the Ice gripper and Snow gripper from Mountain King which are ideal for icy pavements, low level tracks and trails, but really shouldn’t be used on anything more adventurous than that.

Ice axes

tcsh — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:17:48 GMT

If there are two items of gear we get asked for advise on all the time, its Ice axes and crampons. We have given these two bits of essential winter kit a gear guide each, but we would always advocate using them in conjunction with each other. For the crampons gear guide please click here.

Ice Axes

There are a lot of myths about choosing the right ice axe. The most common myths are about sizing. Many people still advocate long axes and that you need a longer axe the taller you are.

We would suggest that a shorter axe is generally better (50-60cm). Even if you are very tall you shouldn’t need a longer axe than this. This is because an axe is in essence a security tool and when traversing steep ground a long axe is cumbersome and can even unbalance you. A shorter axe should allow you to walk normally with your hand at a comfortable height.

In a self arrest, which is a ice axes most important function, a short axe is easier to get your body weight over and drive into the snow. A longer axe may protrude from under you, making it more difficult to affect an arrest, or worse, the protruding point may bite into the snow and cause you to cartwheel.

An axe isn’t intended to be a used as a walking stick, so it doesn’t need to be 70 or 80cm long. In fact a long ice axe will be more a hindrance rather than a help. In days gone by longer axes were recommended to walkers as they made cutting steps easier. These days the vast majority of winter walkers use crampons as a matter of course, which makes cutting steps for long periods a thing of the past. A short axe will still cut steps and pigeon holes if required anyway.

Also a shorter axe is far better suited to climbing duties. Even if winter climbing isn’t on your agenda, you may encounter short, steep snow filled ramps and gullies on any winter walk. These are climbed far easier with a short ice axe, as its more compact size and lower weight makes them easier and less tiring to place.

Leashes

The use of a leash is very much down to personal choice. Many people find leashes make swopping hands when changing direction very awkward. Others believe that if you inadvertently drop and lose your axe in the mountains then you’re stuffed. Both are true, so its very much down to you whether you use a leash or not. If you do have a leash attached to your axe and alternate between using it and not, it is important to keep it wrapped away and not hanging loose when not being used. A dangling leash can easily get snagged on crampons and be a hazard.

Ice Axe types

Essentially Ice axes can be categorised into 3 types, although all perform the basic function of providing security on steep, ice or snow covered ground and there is a lot of ‘crossover’ between the categories.

Walking Axes – these are the most basic of the 3 types and are often the cheapest axes to buy. They will typically have straight metal shaft, which will be usually ‘B’ rated*. They will have a fairly flat angled pick, which will often be made with welded steel or alloy. Walking axes will also be available in quite wide range of lengths (50cm - 75cm+). Walking axes are suitable for general winter hill walking in the UK, glacier travel and easy graded or ‘facile’ alpine routes.

Mountaineering axes - These are the next step up and will happily do everything a walking axe will do, but they are also suitable to be used for general mountaineering. These axes will be stronger than walking axes and usually have a T rated metal shaft**, which allow them to be belayed from. The angle of the pick will be more sharply angled and more aggressively toothed and many mountaineering axes also have a rubber grip on the lower shaft to make climbing and cutting steps easier. The most modern designs also feature a curved shaft which is easier to ‘dagger’ into steep snow, it offers better knuckle clearance than a straight shaft and it is also more comfortable to stash the axe behind your pack. Mountaineering axes will typically have forged steel or alloy heads and will be more expensive than a comparable walking axe.

If you can afford a mountaineering axe, even if you don’t plan to do any mountaineering, its a worthwhile investment. It will prove to be a better long term buy than a basic walking axe, as they will be better made and will be more capable. A well looked after, good quality mountaineering axe can potentially last you a lifetime.

Technical climbing axes - These are by far the most specialist and expensive axes you can buy. Intended to be used in pairs, these are designed purely for winter, mixed and alpine climbing. They do share many features of the mountaineering axe, but they have much more aggressively angled picks, radically curved shafts and usually have a modular construction, allowing picks etc to be interchanged. Technical axes are usually available in both Adze and Hammer versions and a pair of axes will usually have one of each. Some of the more specialist axes have completely done away with the hammer and adze now though, making the tools lighter and more precise to place. These axes are intended for elite climbers who will often climb without using leashes.

Due to the aggressive angle of the pick head and the shaped and curved shafts of Technical ice tools, they are far from ideal for any purpose where you’d normally use a single axe. In experienced hands though they are fine for walk in’s and descent routes.

*B rated (Basic) shafts are not rated for belaying. Denoted by a B in a circle on the shaft

**T rated (Technical) shafts have been tested with high loads and are strong enough to be belayed from. Denoted by a T in a circle.

Self Arrest

The idea of a self arrest is quite simple; to stop any uncontrolled slide on a snow or ice covered slope. Slips, trips and falls in the snow covered mountains can be highly dangerous for obvious reasons. If you do find yourself slipping then it needs to be halted as soon as possible to prevent momentum being gained and you hurtling unstoppably down a steep mountain side or rock face.

The self arrest is an ice axes main safety function (excluding climbing axes of course) and anyone buying an ice axe should have an understanding of self arrest techniques. It is pointless carrying an ice axe without the knowledge of how to use it when it matters most.

At the very minimum we would recommend reading a reputable winter skills book, such as the MLTUK Winterskills handbook, and then practicing your self arrests on a benign snow slope to hone your technique. A better option would be to go on one of the many winter skills courses available, such as those run by Plas Y Brenin or Glenmore Lodge, where you can learn the practical skills that may safe your life, in action and on the hill.

Enhancements of Microsoft Dynamics RMS 2.0 Feature Pack

Grant — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:49:42 GMT

Microsoft have now released feature pack 1 for Microsoft RMS which includes a number of features based updates including:

Quality Enhancements;

Compatibility Matrix;

Purchasing Improvements;

Voucher Enhancements;

Reporting

Read the full article here

Enhancements of Microsoft Dynamics RMS 2.0 Feature Pack 1!

Grant — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:26:43 GMT

Microsoft have now released feature pack 1 for Microsoft RMS which includes a number of features based updates including:

Quality Enhancements;

· User Interface updates to Store Operations Manager and POS.

Compatibility Matrix;

- Microsoft Windows 7 SP1.

- Microsoft SQL Server 2008 R2.

- Microsoft Windows Server 2008 SP2.

- Microsoft Dynamics GP 2010 Integration Compatibility.

Purchasing Improvements;

- Centralised Purchasing.

- Landed Cost – Automatically calculate the landed cost for each item received through purchase orders and stock transfers.

- Ordering Guidance – Gather information when ordering or transferring stock such as item sales and order history, GMROI (Gross Margin Return On Investment), stock turns and profit margin.

- Partial Shipment – Process payments against partially received shipments.

Voucher Enhancements;

- Global Vouchers – Offer customers the convenience and flexibility to purchase and use vouchers across any store in the chain.

- Voucher Usability Improvements – Implement automatic voucher numbering, issuing vouchers for store credit, adding funds and checking balance.

- Voucher Accounting – Execute accounting treatment of vouchers as liability until redemption.

Reporting

- GMROI and Stock Turns Report – View the income on every dollar spent on stock with GMROI (Gross Margin Return On Investment), which is a key profitability evaluation ratio that analyses a retailer’s ability to turn stock into cash above the cost of the stock.

- Stock Valuation Report – Track stock valuation of stores, departments, categories, suppliers, brands and specific items for a specified date range. In addition, this report can be used for auditing item price, cost, and quantity changes.

What is Barefoot Running?

tcsh — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:28:24 GMT

Quite simply, Barefoot Running is running with bare feet! However, the Barefoot Running Movement is a little more complicated than that. Once the preserve of hippies, surfers and tribal folk, going barefoot has attracted the attention of more technologically minded modern runners.

Barefoot Running Explained

As a runner, it can quite often seem that, in picking running as your exercise of choice, you commit yourself to a life of (hopefully minor) injuries and niggles. When you chat to fellow runners the topic of conversation can often drift onto what injuries you have had and how much time out off you had to take. Where most of us just accept it as an occupational hazard, some runners, championed by Barefoot Ken Bob, have decided to try a radical solution – ditching the shoes (or at least, the normal running shoes)

The idea is that, even though there has been millions of pounds and dollars invested across the globe into footwear research, the regularity of injuries incurred by runners does not seem to reduce. In contrast to the money spent on research, natural selection has had almost 5 million years to produce an effective bipedal (walking on two feet) human foot, which should be more than enough time to create a design that works without constantly injuring the owner!

The Theory of Barefoot Running:

When you run with cushioned shoes on, the natural tendency is to plant your heel first, roll forward and push off your toe. This puts a lot of stress on your heel which has little natural spring in it and therefore can transfer the pressure to higher joints like the knee and the hips. When someone runs without shoes on, they are more likely to use the balls and the fore of the foot which then offers a natural cushioning and springing action through the length of the foot. This dampens the impact and can produce less stress injuries.

Although this all sounds very logical, and you just need to look at some of the tribes across the world for examples of people that can happily run around in rough terrain without shoes, modern humans have developed very soft feet. Most of us (unless we grew up in a hippy commune) will have worn shoes for the bulk of our life. As a consequence, the soles of our feet are soft and not resistant to the impact of multi terrain - you just have to watch a holiday maker leave a beach bare foot for an example of this; you get a few seconds of ‘hmm, this is ok, I can tolerate this’, followed by the realisation that the stones are quite sharp, before the inevitable stop, look around and search for either softer ground or somewhere to sit and put shoes on!

Minimal Shoes:

This is where the idea of ‘Minimal Shoes’ or ‘Racing Flats’ can come in to its own. These are shoes that have very little cushioning and allow your feet to feel the terrain that they are running on as well as flex and bend how they need to in order to cushion your ride. If you look at many of the major fell running shoes like Inov-8’s you will notice that they do not have much cushioning, this reduces the likeliness of a twisted ankle as it lowers the foot’s centre of gravity in increases your responsiveness. Minimal footwear is a step further (excuse the pun) however, with a very thin layer of rubber between you and the ground. This has the advantage of allowing your foot to function like it is barefoot, whilst being protected from the inevitable sharp stones and dangerous objects that can litter our trails and paths.

Mens and Womens Vibram Five Finger Sprint’s

Barefoot Running Products:

The latest proponent of this style of footwear is the outsole specialist ‘Vibram’ who have made the Five Fingers. A range of shoes that not only lack cushioning but also have a toed forefoot, the innovative Five Fingers range allows you to use the natural stabilisers that we are all born with – our toes. In order to cope with different terrains and uses, the Five Finger range features different tread patterns (similar to that of a car!). There is a lot of controversy about the idea, especially it’s scientific grounding, but it seems that for some people it is definitely an improvement. Time will tell whether it is a fad or whether it is the look of things to come, the only real way is to test them out.

Massive order placed with Whiting Farms for Hen Capes and Saddles!

Nigel — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:22:49 GMT

Lakeland have just placed a massive order with Whiting Farms for Hen Capes and Saddles. Arriving in 10-14 days are Whiting Hen Capes, Whiting Hebert Hen Capes, Brahma Hen Capes, Brahma Saddles, Brahma Soft hackle with Chick-A-Bou, Coq de Leon Hen Capes, Coq de Leon hen Saddles, Coq de Leon Soft Hackle with Chick-A-Bou and the American Hen Saddles. Lakeland have also ordered more of the STUNNING Coq de Leon Rooster Saddles. Watch the Blog for more stock information and sign up for the news letter on the home page so you don’t MISS OUT, this stock will move FAST!

New O’Neill Psycho RG8 now in stock

wbsc — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 12:02:40 GMT

New O’Neill Psycho RG8 men’s full winter steamer now in stock…

The latest Psycho wetsuit from O'Neill, the RG8 comes with more stretch than ever before and with great environmentally sound credentials.

The Psycho RG8 has some stunning features. The F.U.Z.E. single zip entry system means even less water will get in; add in the fact that the zip is O'Neill's Code Red version, and we're talking seriously water resistant.

Less zip means greater stretch (zips don't stretch, after all!). Single fluid seam weld means added flexibility, too. The neoprene itself is 100% RG8 Ultraflex, which is as stretchy as neoprene gets. So the RG8 gives you the best possible ease of movement of any winter steamer.

Other useful details include the Firewall back panel, keeping you lovely and warm on those chilly winter morning surfs. There's a handy key pocket with secure loop and of course, Krypto knee pads to protect your knees and reinforce this part of the suit.

Stocks are limited, so grab yours now…

Sale now on!

bktr — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 15:21:12 GMT

The great annual Biketreks Summer Sale starts this weekend and boy have we got some fantastic deals on the go! Check out the Sale part of our website for everything we have that’s online in the sale, however we do have even more fantastic offers available in-store only! Make a trip to Biketreks, Ambleside soon and you won’t be disappointed!

Not to mention all the sale products we have, more and more 2011 products keep rolling in through our door everyday! Even more Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon frames have turned up this week along with new stock of Five Ten shoes!

Looking for the Tent Competition Page?

tcsh — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 12:07:40 GMT

Follow this Link, and you’ll be there. Sorry, this is a temporary fix to a dodgy link problem, we’ll have it sorted today,

Thanks for your patience, Rich

(http://www.climbers-shop.com/film-comp.aspx)

Useful Links

tcsh — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 08:32:24 GMT

Climbers Shop Brands

Aku	Mountaineering and walking boot manufacturers from Italy	Light My Fire	Camping gadgets, including the famous ‘Spork’
Aquapac	Waterproof cases for cameras, phones etc	Mammut	High quality Swiss clothing brand (not to be confused with Marmot!)
Beal	Probably Europes leading rope makers. (their site’s a bit ropey though!)	Meindl	‘Shoes for Actives’ (I know,it doesn’t make sense, but they’re German!)
Black Diamond	Top notch climbing hardwear	Metolius	Climbing training aids
Bridgedale	Walking socks, running socks, skiing socks etc…	Montane	Low weight home grown outdoor clothing
Buff	One product, many variations	MSR	Camping gadgets and accessories
Camelbak	Hydration units (water bladders) for all occasions	Nikwax	The re-proofing specialists – get more beading in your life
DMM	Welsh climbers and proud of it	Odlo	Comfortable under & baselayers
Edelrid	Funky climbing gear	Osprey	Lightweight, trekking backpacks
Exped	Camping accessories, mostly dealing with waterproof bags	Optimus	Well crafted Scandinavian cookwear
Five Ten	Pioneering rock shoe manufacturers from across the pond	Pacific Outdoor	‘Eco’ camping equipment that uses less petrochemicals
Garmin	Everything GPS	Petzl	Good quality climbing hardwear and equipment
Garmont	Technical footwear for the outdoor market	Polaroid	Polarised sunglasses for outdoor use (not just old school cameras)
Golite	Clothing and packs for the lightweight obsessed	Rab	One of UK’s leading outdoor clothing/sleeping bag brand
Grivel	Ice specialists – crampons, axes etc	Raidlight	Trail running specialists
Haglofs	Popular and well made Scandinavian clothing (we’re big fans)	Red Chili	Rock shoes from an established German brand
Helly Hansen	Baselayers and underwear manufacturers	Salomon	One of Europes most popular footwear brands
High 5	Nutrition for outdoor activities	Scarpa	Mountaineering and climbing footwear
Hilleberg	The worlds finest backpacking tents! (unofficially)	Sole	Innovatively supportive footwear and insoles
Injinji	Socks with toes! So crazy, it might just work	Teva	Sandals and trekking footwear
Inov-8	Trail and fell running footwear specialists	Thermarest	Inflatable mattresses and accessories
Jetboil	Clever rapid boiling stoves, when you need tea quick!	Wild Country	One of the UK’s leading climbing equipment manufacturers
Julbo	Outdoor orientated sunglasses	X Bionic	Probably the worlds most technical base layers, with a built in ‘air conditioning’ system
Kahtoola	Spikes to fit any type of shoe for winter traction	X Socks	Technical and comfortable ‘next generation’ socks
La Sportiva	High end climbing and mountaineering footwear	Zamberlan	Quality, Italian made trekking and mountaineering footwear
Leki	The world’s leading pole manufacturer